The Buenos Aires Report


Saving forward has allowed me to go on vacation without guilt.  I’ve been wanting to go to Buenos Aires for some time, and now I could afford to.  It didn’t hurt that it’s one of the few places whose currency is weaker than the dollar.  Without getting to long and flower-y, here is my hit parade:

-empanadas – as the de facto grab and go snack, they are outstanding everywhere – freshly burnished from the wood oven at Cumana, hocked by wandering vendors like cigarette girls at the San Telmo Feria, beautifully displayed to be quickly consumed at Confiteria Quebec.  I would know, I had one almost every day.

Cumana, 1149 Rodriguez Pena, Recoleta

San Telmo Feria, at Plaza Dorrega, San Telmo, Sundays only

Confiteria Quebec, 1202 Avenida Callao, Recoleta

-alfajores – essentially a sandwich cookie with dulce de leche in the middle, it beats Oreos by a mile.  Varying from soft and cake-like to crisp and buttery to thin and wafer-y, I liked them all.  I, also, had one a day.

-caffe con leche – didn’t have a bad one.  Ever.

-lomo!  lomo!  lomo! – I couldn’t help myself.  The sirloin cut proved irresistible and oh so cheap, crunchy char on the outside, juicy (and bloody) on the inside.  Greed has a name called lomo.

Juana M., 1535 Carlos Pellegrini, Retiro

Parrilla Pena, 682 Rodriguez Pena, Tribunale

-pizza – I have room in my heart for both New York and Argentinian pizza.  My stink pie – half roquefort, half anchovies – was divine on a crisp pillow-y crust.  Especially in a place as untouched as El Cuartito.

El Cuartito, 937 Talcahuano, Recoleta

-choripan – how can I not love a sandwich that has sausage, lettuce, tomato, a fried egg, and chimichurri?  Better yet, when it’s had a stand by the river.

Mama Baker, Calabria and Padre Migone, Costunera Sur

-finger sandwiches – when I wasn’t eating empanadas on the run, I would have these ultra thin sandwiches on tissue-thin crustless bread.  The man-sized tea sandwich practically melt in your mouth.

-malbec – so good, so cheap, I’m a fan.

-chimichurri – the chunky parsley pesto makes the good (lomo), even better.   I could drink it.

-dulce de leche – okay, it got a brief nod in the alfajores, but it deserves its own shout out.   What peanut butter is to America, dulce de leche is to Argentina.  Grocery store aisles are filled with jars, row after row.  I brought back El Salamandra for a mere pittance.  Along with so much more to weigh down my luggage.

I can have a taste of Argentina any time, but I’d be happy to go back.


3 Responses to “The Buenos Aires Report”

  1. Matt Says:

    Glad you enjoyed our nosh – and you get extra points for spelling ‘parrilla’ correctly.

    If I remember rightly, Parrilla Peña was one of Taxi Gourmet’s ( favourite steakhouses…

    • thelittlestkitchen Says:

      Yes, it was! But I first heard about Parrilla Pena from a friend who had been down there for two weeks. It was his favorite place, had 10 out of 58 meals there! A most heartfelt recommendation!

  2. Back to Reality « The Littlest Kitchen Says:

    […] going to Buenos Aires, a fantastic Thanksgiving, and the incredible Ko, I’ve come back to earth to start cooking […]

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