Eggs are truly a wonder food for me. I love them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Any leftovers can be extended and improved with an egg. It is equally good sweet, as in a custard, and savory, as in a frittata. One of my favorite egg dishes that I’ve never tried to make is a savory steamed egg custard. There are Chinese, Japanese, and Korean versions of this silky, briny treat; having the Dok Suni cookbook, I tried the Korean version of egg and scallion custard for my first time. Simply egg, water, salt, scallions, sesame oil, ground sesame seeds, and a pinch of red pepper, the hardest thing was getting the steam time correct. The recipe asks to be made in one big bowl, but I lacked a pot and a bowl that was the right size, so I made single size ramekins. Not taking into account volume differentiation, I steamed one ramekin for the full 20 minutes, which overcooked the egg into a tight, dense knot. Quartering the time, because I had quartered the quantity, made a perfectly good custard, nutty from the sesame. This version is not as delicate as a Japanese chawan mushi, which will be next on the experiment table.


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